Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel train arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds form.

It is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. But one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with round purplish berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've noticed people concealing heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He has organized a informal group of growers who produce vintage from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an official name yet, but the group's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Across the World

To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve open space from development by establishing long-term, productive farming plots within cities," explains the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, community, environment and history of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Polish Variety

Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Collective Activities Throughout the City

Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from France and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 vines. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit slung over her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."

Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from the soil."

Terraced Gardens and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 vines perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street."

Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can make intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of £7 a serving in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "That's how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Environments and Creative Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental local weather is not the only challenge faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to erect a fence on

Amy Goodman
Amy Goodman

Lena is a digital strategist with over a decade of experience in helping businesses scale through innovative marketing techniques.